Nail Lingo

I had a request for a blog post about basic nail art/nail polish terminology/lingo so I figured that since my blog is just starting up that now was a good time for this post and it would make a great topic for this week's post. This is going to be a picture heavy long wordy post. But stay with me and you will learn a lot (hopefully) and have some fun doing it.

Orange Stick: An Orange Stick is a wooden Stick that is beveled to a point on one end and beveled to a slant on the other. These can be used for nail art (like in water Marbling), or to push back your cuticles.

Free Edge (of the nail): This is the very end of your nail. The tip that you would use to scratch.

Dotting Tool: A dotting tool is an instrument that has either a small point, or a ball (in varying sizes), that is used in nail art to make dots, or draw lines.

Striping Tape: This is a small roll of tape that comes in many colors. It is usually very thin and is used in nail designs as part of the design itself or a tool to obtain the desired look.

3-free: It would be great if this stood for 3 free nail polishes...but what it really stands for is when a nail polish is free of Dibutyl Phthalate (DBP), Formaldehyde and Toluene (known as the 'Big 3'). So I'm sure you're like me and wondering "Why are these things bad?" Well here's what I have been able to figure out thus far. In studies, long term exposure to these chemicals can cause irritation. I personally select nail polishes that are 3-free because I have uber sensitive skin...well that and eww it's Formaldehyde (as in what they use to preserve dead bodies) I don't want that on my nail. Icky!

Tape Off Your Nails: This is when you use some form of tape (Scotch or painters tape) to tape around the nail for easier clean up when doing nail art (Usually for messier nail art like water marbles, gradient manicures, splatter or any sponging nail art). basically you are using tape to make your finger look like it's wearing a tiny little nun's habit. 

(In case you were wondering that's Color Club: Factory Girl under Revlon: Whimsical on my nail)

Taping Manicure: This is when you use tape (Scotch, stiping or painters tape) to get a crisp line when painting your nails. Usually this is used in block manicures, French tip manicures, and when you use craft hole punches or patterned scissors to create a pattern on the nail. Or like below you want a random pattern to appear as if it's underneath the polish. I personally really like using striping tape to get the laticed look on the ring finger in the picture below. 

Stamping Manicure: A stamping manicure is when you use a stamper, and image plate, and a scraper to put intricate patterns on your nails. A few of the most popular brands are Konad, Mash, and Bundle Monster.

Gradient Manicure: This is manicure in which the polish shifts color over the length of the nail. This is usually done with a sponge and uses a layering of one polish after another. The Ombre manicures and glitter gradients are all this type of manicure.

Free Hand Painted Manicure: This is a manicure in which all art on the nails is painted by hand with nail polish, acrylic paint or some combination of the two. This is among the harder forms of nail art and requires a steady hand and lots of patience.

Water Marble Manicure: This is one of the most difficult time consuming manicures I have yet to try. It's a swirl pattern that's created using water and nail polish to create a really pretty design on the nail. I will at some point in the future put up a water marble tutorial when I have the patience for it, because it requires a lot (and I do mean a lot) of patience. It's also the type of manicure that a lot of people seem to have problems with. So since I am able to do it, I feel somewhat responsible to put up a tutorial in the future, to help others who are still struggling.

The "Right" Way To Paint Your Nails: First of all let me just say that there is no right or wrong way to paint your nails. Anyone who claims there is a 'right' or 'wrong' way to paint your nails is probably a nail snob. It's really just important to find a method that works best for you in terms of application. There are a few good rules to follow though. Try to paint the nail in as few strokes as possible (I can get all my nails in 2 or 3 strokes). Clean up any polish around the nail on the cuticle as soon as possible. Go slow it's easier to avoid mistakes when you go slow. Start with you pinkie and work toward your thumb so you are not reaching over wet nails to polish (it minimizes smudges). Wait for each coat to dry completely before applying another coat (or you will get bubbles). Don't shake the bottle, invert it (tightly capped) and roll it between your palms. Base coats keep polish from staining your nails. Top coats seal  the polish together and decrease chances of chipping. Lastly don't forget to paint the free edge (with base coat at the beginning and top coat at the end) this creates a better seal and decreases the frequency of chips. 

How To File Your Nails: Okay well here's how I file my nails. From right to left (on my left hand) and from left to right (on my right hand). It doesn't seem to matter which way you prefer but make sure you don't seesaw the file across your nail, as this can increase the chance of the nail peeling. Also it's important to note that you shouldn't file your nails when they are wet, because your nails are not as strong. You could end up doing more harm than good if you file them when they are wet. It's also important to note that it's not a good idea to share nail files with anyone. I have heard some scary stories of nail fungus spreading by sharing files. It's just good practice to have a file just for you and to avoid salons or people who want to use the same files on every one they work on (unless they are sanitized between each use and only glass files can be properly sanitized). Plus it's just better to have you own personal file so you know where it's been.

Nail Secrets: I get a lot of questions from people on how to get your nails to grow. Here's what works for me and I hope it works for you. Most importantly eat well, good nutrition goes a long way. I take a supplement as well. Any supplement with Biotin in it or over the counter prenatal vitamins will help get things growing (and help your hair grow fast and strong as well, it's win, win). It's also important to keep your nails moisturized, it keeps them strong and decreases the likelihood of painful and ugly hangnails. I am a lotion freak because of my skin condition (Dyshidrotic Eczema) and I have also removed all hand soaps with Triclosan from my home (as it's an allergen for me). Triclosan is used to kill germs and funguses but is also very drying on your skin. I was also told by my doctor that as long as you wash for the proper time (30 seconds) with Triclosan free (regular non-antibacterial) soap you will kill all the same germs as antibacterial soap so no hygiene worries there. Also I lotion after every hand washing. I also use Solar (or cuticle) oil right after I polish my nails. It's also important (at least for me) to keep my nails polished. The bottom line  is that to grow your nails you need to nourish your nails (great nails start with a healthy diet), keep them moisturized (lotion is your friend), and keep them polished. This is what has worked for me.

NAIL POLISH FINISHES

Duo-Chrome Finish: This finish is kind of hard to explain. Essentially a Duo-Chrome polish is a polish that shines with two or more colors. Basically as you move your finger the color you see changes depending on the angle and the light situation. I don't currently have any true duo-chrome polishes (yet) so I won't put a picture up but if you want to see a true Duo-Chrome polish do a Google Image search for OPI - Just Spotted The Lizard, it's the best example I can think of.

Holographic finish:  This is a high shine finish that is kind of metallic and very eye catching. Think of the old school holograms that came in cereals, and Cracker Jack boxes. It's the nail polish equivalent of that. It's also got the same look to it as some of the hologram seals I've seen on my husband's baseball cards. Expect to pay more for true holographic polishes because of the higher cost of the holographic pigment in them.

Color Club: Worth The Risqué

Matte Finish: A matte finish is just like a finish you would expect in any matte makeup. When the polish dries it has a flat almost frosted glass look to it. Almost all major brands have some form of matte polish. You can also buy Matte top coats that make any nail polish matte.  

China Glaze: Sun Worshiper

Flakie Glitter: Flakie glitters are all the rage right now and they are a lot of fun if you like a lot of sparkle. This type of polish has a torn flake like appearance and is usually iridescent (changes color based on the color behind it and the lighting). These polishes are usually best over another color. Use light underneath a flakey polish for a more subtle sparkle. Use dark polish (or black) to see a more dramatic color, or to show off more what the flakey has to offer.

Finger Paints: Asylum

Jelly Polish: A jelly polish is a polish that dries to a jelly finish. It also has a fairly transparent base color that when dried looks almost like a jelly shoe (you remember those don't you?). Most of the Deborah Lippmann 'glitter' polishes are in fact jelly polishes with glitter in them. Also a lot of colors that are marked as "French Manicure" polishes are jelly polishes. A hint of color and a shiny dried jelly like finish.

Deborah Lippmann: Lady Sings The Blues

Glitter Polish: Glitter polish is pretty self explanatory. It's a polish with lots, and lots of glitter in them. They usually have a clear base and varying sizes/colors/shapes of glitter suspended in them. Think nail bling...lots and lots of nail bling.

OPI: Gone Gonzo

Crème Finish Polish: This happens to be one of my favorite nail polish finishes/formulas. These are polishes that have a creamy base to them. They come in a wide variety of colors and kind of look like someone added milk to the polish for a creamy color (hence the name). Every brand makes crème polishes.

China Glaze: Below Deck

Indie Polish:  An Indie polish is a nail polish that is made by a non-mainstream company. Usually 'mom and pop' style venders who love nail polish and make great original polishes that mainstream nail polish companies would never make. They are hand crafted, in smaller batches by sellers who care about their products and take pride in their work (and they should they are all insanely talented and make great products). A good place to buy these is on the Etsy or Ninja Polish websites.

Franken Polish:  A Franken polish is a nail polish that is made by combining two (or more) nail polishes, glitters, or pigments  in order to create a new original color of nail polish. I personally have made a few of these and it's great fun. Especially when someone looks at your polish and says "Where did you get it?" and you get to say "I made it." Plus it's a great way to use up all those almost empty bottles you have lurking around. If you don't have any yet give it time you will.

Onyx Polish (My Franken) : Nicole's Eyes

Nail Striping Pen/Brush:  This is a nail art tool where nail polish is in a special container that has both a skinny fine bristled brush and a pen like tip for dots. These make nail art fast and easy. Almost every brand has some form of this whether it's a pure striper or a pure nail art pen. I have Nail star because they were insanely cheap on Ebay.

Nail Star: Black

I think I covered every thing...if not and you still have questions leave me a comment and I'll add it to this post or save it for the next nail terminology post. As always stay classy and stay polished.
XOXO

            

My First Tutorial

Yay! My first tutorial. So I'm sure you are thinking why not make a video rather than try to do a picture tutorial. That's a great question...without a great answer. It's a kind of a lame excuse/reason. My Nikon doesn't take very good video and the only other camera I have is my web-cam built into my lap top...yeah needless to say I didn't want to paint my nails on my keyboard. I'm strange that way. So picture tutorial it is. Maybe some day when my blog gets going I will reconsider and buy a digital camcorder for this purpose but for now I am only taking pictures and doing picture tutorials. 

I also feel I should warn you I was an idiot over last weekend and cleaned without rubber gloves and had nail malfunctions a plenty so my nails are pretty short at the moment. Since I go a-natural they are kinda stubby but they grow pretty fast so soon they will be back to my preferred length. So let this be a lesson to me about wearing my cleaning gloves. 

Okay enough of my blathering on and excuses for format. The manicure I am going to show is a taping manicure with rainbow underlay. It's time consuming but I think once it's done it's well worth the effort so lets get to it.

Here's what you are going to need...

You don't need these exact things. Base coat and top coat brand are your choice these just happen to be my   favorites at the moment and what I decided to use. You will need a black creme polish, any black polish will work but I love China Glaze so Liquid Leather was my choice. Plus it's possibly my favorite polish. (I just love the patent leather shine of it). Then three colors that are similar in consistency, but different in color. By that I mean have the same sheen to them but different colors. I chose these three because they have the same satin finish and a hint of pearl/metallic shimmer in them.  You will also need tweezers (to remove tape and any pesky pet hairs that try to foul things up), a pair of scizzors to cut the striping tape, and striping tape. I have seen some people use trimmed painters or scotch tape but I prefer the uniformity of width that you get with striping tape (There's my Virgo OCD again).

****A note on striping tape it can cost you a bit if you get it in the wrong place. I got mine on Ebay. I got 10 rolls for $1.31. It shipped from over seas, but was well worth the wait and it saved me a ton of money. But use what ever you are comfortable with.

STEP 1

Here are my naked fingernails...I feel like I should have a blur on them for their nudity. Start with clean, dry nails. Push back your cuticles and apply a base coat (don't forget the free edge).

STEP 2

 Paint a small stripe down one side of your finger nails. I started with yellow because...well because it was the closest bottle to me. I know really democratic, but hey it works for me.  

STEP 3

Paint a second stripe down the other side of the nail. Again I just grabbed the next bottle on my desk it was green. 

STEP 4

 Paint a stripe down the middle of the nail and wait for it to dry. And this part is really important. All three colors have to be really dry or it will foul up the tape removal later. I wait about an hour or so to make sure it's good and dry. But your dry time may be different depending on what brand you use and how many coats you apply. When you are sure the polish is fully dry, apply a top coat. This will help the tape not stick later. And wait till it's dry. This should only be a few minutes. 

STEP 5

 Apply striping tape (or other tape cut to the right width). Any pattern you like. I like the star bust design. So that's the one I am going to show you. Run your finger over the tape and make sure it's secure at the edges. If you have a loose edge the black polish will seep under it and ruin the whole thing. So push that tape securely down. But if your fingers look like the picture above you are on the right track. It also doesn't matter if they all look the same. They don't need to, it gives them a crafted quality, makes them wabi sabi. There's beauty in the imperfection. Embrace that chaos ladies, it makes them special and makes them yours. 

STEP 6

Here's the messy part. Paint entire nail surface with black polish. Use as many coats as you need to to make it opaque. I used two. Wait for black polish to dry to a semi tacky state. Don't wait to long or the striping tape will become part of your manicure. And that kind of defeats the point. Once the polish is tacky/semi-dry use the tweezers to remove the striping tape. Pull slowly from left to right (or right to left) trying to keep the tape at a right angle. The angle of the tape is important because it will give you a crisp line. It's also really important to pull slowly. If you pull to fast you risk  tear like lines instead of the crisp lines we are after and you could pull up the lower layers of polish if you pull to fast. Take your time, go slow and let the tweezers to the work (so you don't mess up your nails). It is also a good idea to have a paper towel or a napkin to stick them to as you pull them off. These guys will get everywhere if you don't have a surface ready to stick them to as you pull them off. 

Here's what I did with mine. 

And when you have removed all the striping tape it should look like the picture below. 

Now it's time for clean up. 

STEP 8

Clean up around the cuticles with nail polish remover. I use a combination of Q-tips and a nail art brush (dipped in polish remover) for this. Q-tips for big spots, nail brush for smaller detailed work. Once this step is done apply a top coat (and don't forget to get the free edge of the nail) so that this manicure lasts as long as possible.

FINISHED PRODUCT

To really appreciate this manicure you have to see it in the light so I walked myself out onto my balcony to do just that. I hope you enjoy this manicure and feel like you can try it for yourself. Until next time stay classy and well manicured. 

Dual Process or Hybrid Nail Art

Just when I though I was done with archive posts I found these guys on my external hard drive. So I water marked them and here they are. These are all the nail art that really had no other place for me to put them. They use multiple styles/types of nail art. 

I call this one Pink Stockings.

Polish Used:

China Glaze: Something Sweet & City Siren

Plate Used: M71 & M79

Accessory: Pink/Dark Pink Fimo Cane Bow

This is a tape/stamping manicure I call Mod Lace. 

Polish Used: 

China Glaze: VIII & Light As Air

Konad: White

Plate: BM11

This is a stamping, taping, free hand manicure I call Falling Leaves.

Polish Used:

China Glaze: Passion

Konad: Black & White

Nail Star: Gold Glitter, Black, & White

Plates Used: M20, & BM11

This is a freehand/stamping manicure I call Dirty Ballerina (design stamped french tip free hand). 

Polish Used:

China Glaze: Fairy Dust & Awaken

Color Club: Revvvolution

Plate: M79

This is a freehand, taping, stamping manicure I did for St. Patrick's Day. I call it Luck Of The Irish. 

Polish Used:

China Glaze: Cha Cha Cha

Konad: Black

Accessory: Gold Striping Tape

Plate Used: M22

Okay this time I am pretty sure I got the last of the archival photo's up. So from here on out it should just be one or two pics at a time unless it's a tutorial (which tend to be more picture heavy posts. As always if anyone has any requests just let me know and I'll try to do it for you. Until next time stay classy and well manicured.